This crochet top holds a special place in my heart. When I first started crocheting, crop tops like this—simple, stylish, and so satisfying to make—were the projects I couldn’t get enough of. There’s something so rewarding about turning a few skeins of yarn into something wearable and unique.
I’m thrilled to share this pattern with you and hope you enjoy making it as much as I did. Let’s get started!
Materials / Tools
Yarn - Category #2 (sport) weight yarn (I used Elastico from Lana Grossa.). Approximate yardage/meter required as follow: XS 160/175 | S 190/208 | M 256/280 | L 320/350 | XL 416/455 | 2XL 540/590 | 3XL 648/708
Crochet Hook 4.00mm
Yarn needle
Stitch Marker
Scissors
Tape Measure
Skill Level : Advanced Beginner
Abbreviations (US Terminology)
BPDC - Back-Post Double Crochet
CH - Chain Stitch
DC - Double Crochet
FDC - Foundation Double Crochet
FPDC - Front Post Double Crochet
INC - Increase
REP - Repeat
SC - Single Crochet
SK -Skip
SL-ST - Slip Stitch
ST - Stitch
SP - Space
YO - Yarn Over
Construction of this Pattern
This is a top-down, single-panel project. Starting at the neck, we’ll gradually increase stitches until reaching the widest part of the chest, then maintain that width until the desired length is achieved.
The project is finished with a single crochet (SC) border to smooth the edges, two straps from the neck corners, and four loops for weaving and securing the straps around the body.
Below are the sections for the instructions:
Neck
Chest
i) Increasing
ii) Bust Band
Bottom Border
Border and Straps
Gauge 10 x 10 cm
19 DC ST x 13 Rows
This is a made-to-measure pattern, meaning the sizing is based on your own measurements rather than stitch counts. However, if you'd like to achieve a similar texture and look as the top shown in the picture, I recommend selecting a yarn and hook that match the provided gauge.
The ST number shown in side the square brackets is the ST count based on my measurement. Check the difference between the rows as reference for the INC of the ST.
Pattern Stitch
1. DC turning ST
Instead of CH3 to turn on the end of the rows, we will be using DC-BLO turning ST to avoid the gap on the sides.
Step 1. CH1, make a SC in the first ST. (picture 1-1)
Step 2. In the left leg of the SC just made, insert the hook and make another SC. (picture 1-2)
2. Foundation Double Crochet - FDC
Step 1. CH3, yarn over, insert the hook in the first CH, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook). (picture 2-1, 2-2)
Step 2. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop (3 loops on the hook). (picture 2-3)
Step 3. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on the hook). (picture 2-4)
Step 4. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (1FDC made) (picture 2-5)
Step 5. Yarn over, insert the hook in both loops on the bottom of last ST. (picture 2-6) Yarn over and pull up a loop. (picture 2-7)
Step 6. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop (3 loops on the hook). (picture 2-8)
Step 7. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops on the hook). (picture 2-9)
Step 8. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops. (2FDC made) (picture 2-10)
REP step 5 to step 8 to make more FDC until the desired amount.
Instructions
1. Neck
Follow the steps bellow to start out beginning CH.
Step 1. Measure the circumference of your neck using a tape measure.
Step 2. Multiply your neck measurement by 0.4. This will give you the length for the starting chain.For example, if your neck circumference is 32 cm, 32 × 0.45 = 14cm
Step 3. To match this calculated length, create a chain of stitches that totals close to this length, ensuring that the number of stitches is a multiple of 6+3.
* I made mine with CH27 to reach 14cm in length.
Row 1: DC turning ST (see Pattern Stitch) in the second CH from the hook. DC in each of the next ST across. [27]
Row 2: CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1), FPDC in the second ST. CH2, SK the next 2ST, FPDC in the next ST. REP from until 1ST left. CH1, DC in the last ST and turn. [29]
Row 3: CH1, DC turning ST in the first ST, 2DC in the CH1 SP. BPDC in the next ST. 2DC in the CH2 SP. REP from until the last CH SP. 2DC in the CH1 SP, DC in the last ST and turn. [31]
Row 4: CH4 (count as 1DC and CH1), FPDC in the next. CH1,SK1, FPDC in the next ST. (CH2, SK2, FPDC in the next ST). REP from until 3 ST left. CH1, SK1, FPDC in the next ST. CH1, DC in the last ST and turn. [33]
Row 5: CH1, DC turning ST in the first ST, DC in the CH1 SP, BPDC in the next ST. 2DC in the CH1 SP. BPDC in the next ST. 2DC in the CH2 SP. REP from until the next CH1 SP. 2DC in the CH1 SP. BPDC in the next ST. DC in the CH1 SP. DC in the last ST and turn. [35]
Row 6: CH5 (count as 1DC, CH2). SK1, FPDC in the third ST (picture1, 2). CH2, SK2, FPDC in the next ST. REP from until 2ST left. CH2, SK1, DC in the last ST and turn. [37]
Row7: CH1, DC turning ST in the first ST. 2DC in the CH2 SP, BPDC in the next ST. REP from until the last CH2 SP. 2DC in the CH2 SP, DC in the last ST and turn. [37]
REP from Row 4 to 7 until the height of your work reaches the level of your armpit (diagram1). End the section in one of the Row 7 REP.
* I made 15 rows in this section and ended with 49 STs.
DO NOT cut the yarn and continue to the following Chest section.
2. Chest
i) Increasing
Row 1: CH3, DC turning ST in the second CH from the hook (picture 3, 4). DC in the next CH ST. DC in the next 3 ST. FPDC in the next ST. DC in the next 2ST. REP from until 1 ST left. DC in the last ST, 2FDC and turn. (picture 6) [53]
* Insert the hook in the last ST to make your first FDC (picture 5).
Row 2: CH3, DC beginning ST in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH ST. DC in the next 2 ST. BPDC in the next ST, DC in the next 2ST. REP from until 2 ST left. DC in the last 2 ST, 2FDC and turn. [57]
Row 3: CH3, DC beginning ST in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH ST. DC in the next ST, FPDC in the next ST. *DC in the next 2ST, FPDC in the next ST. REP until 1 ST left. DC in the last ST, 2FDC and turn. [61]
Row 4: CH3, DC beginning ST in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH ST. DC in the next 3 ST. BPDC in the next ST, DC in the next 2 ST. REP from until 1 ST left. DC in the last ST, 2FDC and turn. [65]
Row5: CH3, DC beginning ST in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH ST. DC in the next 2ST, FPDC in the next ST. REP from until 2 ST left. DC in the last 2 ST, 2FDC and turn. [69]
Row6: CH3, DC beginning ST in the second CH from the hook. DC in the next CH ST. DC, BPDC in the next ST. DC in the next 2 ST, FPDC) in the next ST. REP from until 1 ST left. DC in the last ST, 2FDC and turn. [73]
REP from Row 1 to 6 until you reach wide enough coverage for the side boobs and reaches the back (diagram 2) . Make sure that the total number of STs is a multiple of 6 + 3 at the end of this part.
* I made 8 rows in total for this section and ended with 81 STs.
DO NOT cut the yarn and continue to the following Bust Band section.
ii) Bust Band
The following instruction is dividing in parts of how many ST before your first FPDC/BPDC from the hook. The following instruction is based on the completion of a Row 2 REP from the last section.
Row 1: CH1, DC beginning ST in the first ST. FPDC in the next ST, DC in the next 2ST. REP from until 2 ST left. FPDC in the next ST, DC in the last ST and turn. [81]
Row 2: CH1, DC beginning ST in the first ST. BPDC in the next ST, DC in the next 2ST. REP from until 2 ST left. BPDC in the next ST, DC in the last ST and turn. [81]
Keep REP Row 1 and 2 until the length of your top reaches the lower edge of your breast. End this part section with one of the Row 2 REP.
* I made 4 rows in total for the section.
DO NOT cut the yarn and continue to the following Bottom Border section.
3. Bottom Border
Row 1: CH1, DC beginning ST in the first ST, FPDC in the next ST. CH2, SK2, FPDC in the next ST. RPE from until 2 ST left. PFDC in the next ST. DC in the last ST. Turn. [81]
Row 2: CH1, DC beginning ST in the first ST. BPDC in the next ST. 2DC in the CH2 SP, BPDC in the next ST. RPE from until 2 ST left. BPDC in the next ST. DC in the last ST. Turn. [81]
REP Row 1 and 2 until you each the desired length before the shell edging. End this part section with one of the Row 1 REP and continue to the Shell ST Row.
* I recommend not making the top longer than the narrowest part of your waist. This will help keep the side seams straight and the overall fit flattering.
* I made 3 rows in total for the section.
Shell ST Row: CH1, SC in the first 2ST. SK2, 5DC in the next ST. .
DO NOT cut the yarn and continue to the following Border and Straps section.
4. Border and Straps
Step 1. Begin at corner 1 (as marked in diagram 4). CH4 to form the first loop.
Step 2. After the first loop, begin working SC stitches evenly along the edge until you reach corner 2.
Step 3. At corner 2, CH4 to form the second loop.
Step 4. Continue working SC stitches evenly along the edge until you reach corner 3 (the first neck corner).
Step 5. When you reach the first neck corner, CH the desired length for the first strap.
* The length of the strap needs to be enough to pass through the upper loop on the opposite side, the lower loop to the other side and tie securely.
* To ensure the straps are the right length, it’s a good idea to measure the distance between the loops on both sides of the garment before deciding how long to make each strap.
* I made mine in 150CH.
Step 6. Turn your work and SL-ST back along the chain to reinforce the strap. Secure the strap by slip stitching into the same neck corner.
Step 7. After completing the first strap, continue working SC along the neck edge until you reach corner 4 (the second neck corner).
Step 8. Create the second strap at the second neck corner following Step 6 and 7.
Step 9. After completing the second strap, continue working SC evenly along the other side of the edge and make CH4 loops in corner 5 and 6 to mirror the first side.
Once all 4 loops and the SC border are complete, weave the straps through the loops and try on you top to see if you’re happy about the fit.
Block your crochet work in any suitable and preferable way according to your yarn composition.
Secure and weave in any remaining yarn ends, and your Lettie Crop Top is done. ☺
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